After talking to a local resident, we learned that it was still possible to fly into Kalaupapa without paying $500 each. The peninsula haunted me as a rare place of sadness and great beauty, especially in Kalawao. Our last trip there was in 2000 on a gray, rainy day. There was a single seat left on a plane before we left for Maui. Since Jim wasn't feeling well, I reserved it for myself. In fact, they asked if I could sit in the co-pilot's seat.
Kalaupapa is very isolated and located on the northern shore, accessible only by air, mule or boat. It is surrounded by the 1600 ft highest sea cliffs in the world and is the location of a leper colony from 1866-1949.
In 2010, we viewed the peninsula
"topside" from above the cliffs.
From: printable-maps.blogspot.com/2011/11/molokai-map.html?m=1
Now called Hansen's disease, leprosy is curable, and 9 patients still live there, with another 7 currently living in Honolulu. 80 people live on the peninsula, mostly National Park service workers, since the area is a National Historical Park site.
King Kamehameha exiled the first leprosy residents. They were dropped overboard near Kalawao, and left to die without medical care or assistance. In December 1873, a young Catholic Belgian priest, Father Damien DeVeuster was sent to help. He improved the conditions greatly until his death in 1889 from leprosy. Mother Mariane Cope took up his work also in 1883 till her death in 1918 at age 80 from natural causes. Both were sainted since we last visited in 2000.
Around 8000 burial sites are found there, only 10% of them are identified after major fires and a tsunami. The hospital burned in 1980.
After picking up the mule riders and hikers near a dark sand beach, we boarded a bus and drove to St. Francis Catholic church.
I read that Richard Marks, our previous tour guide in 2000 died in December 2008. He was such an interesting character, we remembered his name!
Ian was the tour guide this time, driving an old school bus, which often stopped every block, till driving to Kalawao, the location of the first unprotected settlement.
Kalawao's sea cliffs and the tiny island close to the cliffs (Okala) are breathtakingly beautiful. Ian jokingly referred to the view there as "his office". It was noon when we stopped there for lunch, not the ideal time for photography, but I tried my best. At least it wasn't raining!
is Mokapu Island and the black sand
beach is Keawaiku beach.
(Panorama)
Our last major stop was at Philomena church, built before Father Damien came to Kalawao. Legend had it that Father Damien spent his first night under a Pandana tree when he arrived there. Ian stopped to feed the local cat and we toured the church and Father DeVeuster's memorial site, the location of his right hand (He is buried in Tremolo, Belgium).
We got back on the plane to return to the main airport.
Here is the end of an interesting day from the plane.
Norfolk Island Pines on the
accessible part of Moloka'i
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